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Highwood's
favorite son delivers another culinary epic with Miramar
   
CS - Chicago Social
December 2004
By Nadine Ekrek
For the last 22 years of his life, Ernest
Hemingway did a few things. He lived in Havana by the sea.
He completed his most ambitious novel, For Whom the
Bell Tolls. And he made almost daily sojourns to his
favorite watering hole some 200 meters away from his home.
That 1930s bar, El Floridita, has become legendary over
the years for its dishy Daiquiris, its celebrity clientele,
and of course, it's mystic literary patron.
Like Hemingway, restaurateur and chef Gabriel Viti is creating
a bona fide epic of his own in Highwood, where his other
eatery, Gabriel's Restaurant, is well-ensconced in Chicago's
fine-dining hall of fame. His second venture, which opened
in June is the Cuban-influenced French bistro Miramar. Inspired
by El Floridita on one of his many visits to Cuba, Viti named
Miramar for the neighborhood in which that famous bar still
resides. And it has fast become the hottest place to be any
night of the week, not only for its frenzied Friday night
dancing, but for its flavorful, authentic food at extremely
reasonable prices. And the atmosphere ain't bad either, folks.
Compared to its fine-dining predecessors, Miramar is a more
casual and accessible dining destination. The decor vaguely
reflects the Old World grandeur of Cuba, but ultimately,
save for the hoppin' Latin music and the whirling ceiling
fans, it's much more classic French bistro than pre-Castro
hideaway. Whatever the confusion, its' a magnificent sprawl.
Since miramar doesn't take reservations, you will often find
droves of couples, North Shore sugar daddies and occasional
celebrities (former Bulls player Toni Kukoc towered above
the crowd on one of our visits) packing in the lively zinc
bars imported from Paris, sometimes waiting more than an
hour for a table. But there's plenty of eye candy to pass
the time. The walls are lined with vintage New York subway
tile and showcase large antique mirrors that have been oxidized
for that extra touch of vintage authenticity. Ornate tin
ceilings are rustically aged, while chalky gray candles on
the tables appear as though they've accumulated a hundred
years' worth of wax drippings. If you arrive early enough
(before 7PM), you can usually snag one of the Italian red
leather booths that line part of the restaurant's perimeter.
Or enjoy closer quarters with the newfound strangers at the
communal table (also good for large parties). This European-style
camaraderie is extended all the way to the bathrooms, which
share a common washroom where both sexes lather up over large
plaster hand basins.
Miramar's bread basket makes for an excellent jumpstart
to the forthcoming meal. You'll be brought an ethereal assortment,
including crusty baguette, five-grain and olive varieties,
all perfect for pairing with several of the menu's stellar
appetizers. A case in point: the Moules Mariniere ($8.25).
These mussels are plump, meaty and expertly seasoned in a
white wine sauce so delicious you'll be tempted to gulp down
the buttery broth after you've exhausted the bread-dipping
possibilities. You'll also want to hoard some extra slices
of pain for the highly addictive Country Pate & Chicken
Liver Mousse ($7.95), which comes with traditional Dijon
mustard and cornichon (gherkins).
It's hard to decide which is better, the rustic, fat-studded
pork rillettes or the silky chicken mousse. Thank goodness
there's a generous serving of both. For those who enjoy the
fruits of the sea, you can arrange your own a la carte Plateaux
Fruits de Mer medley - fresh oysters ($2.55 each), clams
($1.50 each), snow crab claws ($2.70 each) and lobster ($18.50)
that arrive on a gleaming mountain of ice. Fans of a good
Brandade de Morue ($7.50) will not be disappointed. Viti
prepares this classic Provencal staple to the letter: a robust
balance of pureed cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and heavy
cream. (Save some of that bread for this dish.) For those
who prefer a lighter dinner, Miramar offers a smattering
of salads and sandwiches, although the portions are still
of the doggy-bag variety. A lovely Salade Lyonnaise ($8.95)
gets extra points for not having overly dressed greens, only
an appropriate slick of vinaigrette laced with mustard and
a nice poached egg on top. There is also a very good, salty
Croque Madame ($9.95) sandwich, the Croque Monsieur ($8.95)
ham and cheese version topped with an egg. All the sandwiches
come with a mound of crispy thin pommes frites.
Entrees round up the usual suspects, such as the Steak Frites
Maitre d'Hotel Butter ($18.95), which hums to a tasty tune
with a heaving dollop of chopped parsley and lemon-tinged
butter. It's worth paying a few extra dollars for the excellent
Entrecote au Poivre Frites ($22.50), a more tender cut of
New York strip that oozes with tangy creme fraiche and cracked
pepper. The Braised Lamb Shank ($19.95) is huge and practically
falls of the proverbial bone. Delicate mashed potatoes work
well with the shank's heady richness. Although the Roast
Rack of Lamb ($20.95) tasted just a tad dry on one occasion,
it was still quite savory and paired well with crisp haricot
verts. While fish selections like the Grilled Samon Provencale
($18.95) and the Skate Beurre Noisette with Lime and Croutons
($18.50) are solid choices, the Tilapia with Buerre Blanc
($18.50) and the Shrimp de Jonghe ($19.95), which is also
available in an appetizer portion, are both sure things.
The mild tilapia is browned to a light crispiness and served
over sauteed spinach, celery, carrots and potatoes in a heavenly
marinade. There's yet another bread-worthy sauce in the de
Jonghe - the amount of garlic is not outrageously racy but
the flavor's all there.
If you've saved room for dessert, tread carefully. The only
shortcomings at Miramar can happen on the sweet side. The
forgettable Lemon Tarte ($6.50) tastes neither lemony nor
tart, a shame since its fresh raspberries and whipped cream
are so good. The Apple Tarte ($6.50) is slightly better,
but still lacks the wow factor you expect after such a fetching
meal. On the other hand, the Profiteroles ($6.50) are spot-on.
They are plump and fresh and come with a trio of vanilla,
chocolate and coffee ice cream. Magnifique!
As far as drinks go, pay attention to anything your very
efficient and knowledgeable waiter recommends, including
a good selection of wines and cocktails like the potent but
scrumptious Mojitos ($7.50). They're a deceptive tease, make
sure to stir them constantly so you don't get ambushed with
only a wallop of alcohol and a mouthful of mint at the finish.
More traditional aperitifs range from Pernod and Pastis (both
$6.50) to the famous Hemingway Bacardi Daiquiri ($7.50).
Whether or not Chicagoans find a trip up to Miramar orth
the hike (it is), one thing's for sure: Viti has tapped into
a niche that Highwood should be enjoying for a long, long
time. With inspired, lively decor, great food at good prices
and warm, friendly service that makes up for the sometimes
long table waits, Miramar is well on its way to enjoying
the same success as Viti's other nearby restaurants. It's
probably only a matter of time before all the locals start
calling him Papa.
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