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BY SHERMAN KAPLAN - BROADCAST JANUARY 14, 2005
It's been not a year since North suburban diners have been
so wowed by a new restaurant that it has practically reinvented
a major restaurant community. The restaurant is Miramar,
at 301 Waukegan Avenue in Highwood. The impact has been enough
to cause city officials to rethink their entire streetscape
and parking arrangements, trying to encourage new business,
while keeping other nearby merchants from steaming.
Miramar is like a movie set outside and in, with a busy
French style bistro and pre-Castro Cuban overtones. The crowds
are akin to those who populate the toniest of overindulged
foodie and fashion haunts in the city.
Yet, even with all the hype, there is some very good cooking
underway for those who really come here for the dining. Begin
with any of several appetizers or salads to get the idea,
as well as a good flavor or two. The onion soup is a bit
more onion flavored than others, playing down the sweet taste.
Caesar Salad is right on, with a not too thick dressing over
chilled Romaine shards so crisp you might think they would
snap if you stared too hard. Other apps include various charcouterie,
steamed mussels or snails in garlic butter, and a beautiful
brandade... that's codfish, whipped potatoes, garlic and
lots of heavy cream.
When it comes to entrees, the steak and fries is always
a good French bistro choice. Miramar's comes heaped with
shoestrings, topping a flavorful and even tender cut of meat
in red wine sauce. Other meats include a couple of lamb recipes,
roast chicken and duck in orange sauce.
Seafood is excellent. Bouillabaisse is the specialty, and
deserves the accolade. Pernod is the predominant flavor accent,
maybe a little too heavy in my most recent tasting, though
if one approaches the broth as if it were wine, hints of
saffron and lobster seem to lie beneath. Among other choices,
skatefish is wrapped in a bold vegetable sauce which makes
the entree much like a fish stew. Salmon is given a purer
approach, recently grilled with a light sauce.
For desserts, the chocolate terrine is a clear winner, but
so too is lemon tarte. On a previous visit, I was disappointed
by the crepes Suzette. The wine list is comprehensive. There
is valet parking, which you will need, and no reservations,
which is unfortunate. But, that gives time to savor the ambiance.
Expect to spend about $70 a couple plus add ons. Miramar,
at 301 Waukegan Road in Highwood has a K/RATING of 18/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 4/5 FOOD 9/10 VALUE 1/1
Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews in North Shore
Magazine
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